Vietnam Muslim Tours

Showcasing fresh and vibrant flavours, excellent street food and elegant restaurants in restored colonial architecture, Vietnam is packed with superb opportunities for eating and drinking. Cookery classes, market visits and walking tours all make it easy to get to the authentic heart of the country’s culinary heritage.

A Day in Hanoi

• Surrounded by an array of eating and drinking opportunities, this is how a resident of the Vietnamese capital might fill a tasty day.

Early Morning

• A local breakfast speciality is bun rieu cua, noodle soup made with a hearty broth using tiny crabs from rice paddies.

Mid-Morning

• Simple cafes and coffee stalls dot Hanoi and catching up with friends over deliciously strong caphe is virtually mandatory. During summer, tra chanh (iced lemon tea) is equally popular.

Lunch

• Bun cha (grilled pork with crab spring rolls, fresh herbs and vermicelli ) is the classic Hanoi midday meal.

Mid-Afternoon

• Hanoi is a city that’s perfect for snacking. Popular on-the-go options include banh ghoi, deep-fried passtries with pork, vermicelli and mushrooms.

Evening

• After dark Hanoi’s footpaths come alive with simple bia hoi (fresh draught beer) stalls; popular drinking snacks include roast duck and dried squid.

Food & Drink Experiences

• Plan your travel around these tasty recommendations and understand the essence of Vietnamese cuisine.

First-Night Dining

Welcom to your first night in Vietnam in Ho Chi Minh City, Hoi An or Hanoi. Here’s where to go to get quickly up to speed with the country’s cuisine.

• Nha Hang Ngon Street-food classics served in a stylish garden setting in Ho Chi Minh City.


• Morning Glory Street Food Restaurant The country’s diverse dishes are served around a lively open kitchen; Hoi An.


• Quan An Ngon Bustling showcases of Vietnamese food in restored colonial building in the nation’s capital.

Street-Food Tours

Pull up a squat plastic stool and discover what makes Vietnam’s street food exceptional, usually in the company of a knowledgeable local foodie.

• Saigon Street Eats Ho Chi Minh City


• Taste of Hoi An Food Tour Hoi An


• Danang Food Tour Danang


• Hanoi Cooking Centre Hanoi


• Hanoi Street Food Tours Hanoi

Best Fusion Restaurants

Discover the culinary intersection between Western flavours and Vietnamese cuisine at these elegant and innovative big-city restaurant.

• Pots ‘n Pans Modern spins on traditional Vietnamese cuisine; Hanoi.


• La Badiane French flavours blend with Vietnamese in this leafy colonial villa, also in Hanoi.


• Xu Stylish HCMC restaurant-lounge with an inventive Vietnamese-inspired fusion menu.

Beyond Bia Hoi

Downing a few leisurely glasses of inexpensive bia hoi ( fresh draught beer) is an essential Vietnamese experience, but also popular is ruou (traditional liquor made from fruit, corn or rice).

• Quan Ly Robust options include rice wine infused with ginseng, snake and gecko; Hanoi.


• House of Son Tinh Elegant Hanoi bar featuring cocktails crafted from high-quality ruou.


• Quan Kien Serves interesting ruou crafted from apricots, apples and limes; Hanoi.


• The Hill Station Signature Restaurant Tasting sets of corn and rice wine are partnered with traditional H’mong cuisine and superb views in Sapa.

Vegetarian & Vegan Food

Com chay (vegetarian) restaurants serving vegan food can be found across Vietnam, and around the first and fifteenth days of the Buddhist calendar month, some food stalls substitute tofu in their dishes.

• Chay Nang Tam Tasty variations on tofu and tempeh; Hanoi.


• …hum Vegetarian Cafe & Restaurants Excellent salads in an elegant HCMC space.


• Com Chay Phuoc Around five different daily dishes star at this simple roadside spot in Mui Ne.


• Lien Hoa Featuring flavour-packed dishes with eggplant and jackfruit; Hue.


• Au Lac Simple vegetarian food in a destination (Nha Trang) more known for seafood.

Minority Flavours

Curious travellers should seek out the food of Vietnam’s ethnic minority groups, especially in the north of the country. Look forward to occasionally challenging but always interesting dishes.

• Chim Sao Try the ethnic minority sausages, served with a zingy mint and coriander dipping sauce (Hanoi).


• Quan Kien Dishes inspired by H’mong, Thai and Muong cuisine (Hanoi).


• The Hill Station Signature Restaurant Chic and modern decor combines with dishes influenced by traditional H’mong cuisine (Sapa).

Table Etiquette

• Have your bowl on a small plate, chopsticks and a soup spoon at the ready.


• Each place setting will include a small bowl at the top right-hand side for nuoc mam (fish sauce) and other dipping sauces.


• Don’t dip your chopsticks into the central bowls of shared food, but use the communal servings spoons instead.


• Pick up your bowl with your left hand, bring it close to your mouth and use the chopsticks to manoeuvre the food. If you’re eating noodles, lower your head till it hangs over the bowl and slurp away.


• If you’re dining in a private home, it is polite for the host to offer more food than the guests can eat, and it’s also polite for guests not to eat everything.


• Remember not to leave chopsticks standing in a V-shape in your bowl as this is a sign of death.

The Ultimate Vietnamese Food Tour

• Start in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam’s energetic southern hub, and negotiate the city’s street-food scene on two wheels with Back of the Bike Tours or XO Tours. Discover local dishes like banh xeo (filled savoury pancakes) before exploring produce markets and trying to cooking class with Cyclo Resto. Consider a southern sojourn on Phu Quoc Island, taking in excellent grilled seafood at the Dinh Cao Night Market.


• Heading north to the riverside town of Hoi An. Once one of Asia’s most cosmopolitan ports with traders from around the world, Hoi An now hosts an international collection of visitors at the town’s many cookery schools. Learn the secrets of local cuisine at the Morning Glory Cooking School or Red Bridge Cooking School, and uncover more street-food secrets with the original Taste of Hoi An food tour. Detour to nearby An Bang Beach for more seafood, and try Hoi An’s signature dish cao lau (Japanese-style noodles with herbs, salad greens, bean sprouts and roast pork) at Mermaid Restaurant.


• Continue north to Hanoi, reowned as one of Asia’s great cities for street food, and negotiate the bustling labyrinth of the Old Quarter with Food on Foot or Hanoi Street Food Tours. Iconic Hanoi dishes to try while in the city include cha ca (grilled fish with turmeric and dill) at Cha Ca Thang Long, and pho bo (beef noodle soup) at Pho Thin. Learn about northern Vietnamese cuisine at the Hanoi Cooking Centre, and try dishes inspired by Vietnam’s ethnic minorities at Quan Kien or Chim Sao.


• Next, catch the train north to Sapa, the heartland region of minority groups including the H’mong and the Red Dzao. Experience H’mong-inspired dishes at The Hill Station Signature Restaurant, book in for its cooking class, and toast your new knowledge of Vietnamese cuisine with a ruou tasting set.

Authentic Coffee

Try these places for an authentic coffee experience.

• Café Duy Tri Dripping with heritage, and virtually unchanged for more than 75 years; Hanoi.


• Café Pho Co Negotiate your way to a hidden balcony overlooking Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem Lake.

Cooking Courses

Cooking courses in Vietnam can range from a simple set-up in someone’s backyard to purpose-built schools.

• Green Bamboo Cooking School A charming and accomplished chef offers personalised cooking courses in Hoi An.


• Hanoi Cooking Centre Excellent interactive cooking classes in Hanoi that include a visit to the market and cooking classes for kids.


• Saigon Cooking Class Learn from the chefs at Hoa Tuc restaurant as they prepare a mouth-watering three-course meal in HCMC.

How to Eat & Drink

When to Eat

• Generally Vietnamese eat three meals per day, beginning with a bowl of noodles or chao (rice porridge) for breakfast. Lunch is usually a social affair, often eaten in the company of workmates at a local restaurant or food stall, and dinner is a leisurely meal, usually shared with friends and family. Throughout the day, snacking opportunities also abound, especially in bigger cities.

Where to Eat

• Throughout Vietnam, food stalls often specialise in just one dish; simple com (literally ‘rice’) restaurants serve the staple along with vegetables and meat or seafood. Vietnamese-style food courts like Quan An Ngon in Hanoi serve dishes from around the country, and more expensive eateries offer Vietnamese classics and Vietnamese-French fusion food, often in restored colonial buildings.

From South to North

• Making the most of Vietnam’s spectacular coastline, this route hugs the shore for much of the time and is bookended by the country’s two greatest cities. You’ll have ample opportunity to indulge in some serious beach time, and be able to hit the cultural sights and explore two national parks en route.


• The adventure begins in the cauldron of commerce that is Ho Chi Minh City. Spend three days hitting the markets, browsing museums and eating some of the globe’s best cuisine. Take a day trip to discover wartime history at the Cu Chi Tunnels. Head north into the central highlands via Cat Tien National Park, home to gibbons, crocodiles and bountiful birdlife. Next up is the romantic hill station of Dalat for a tour of its quirky sights, and the opportunity to get stuck into some adventure sports such as canyoning, mountain biking of kayaking.


• Then it’s a stunning road trip down to the beach at Mui Ne, a tropical idyll with towering dunes and crazy kitesurfing. Continue up the coast to the big brash resort of Nha Trang, where party people will love the hedonistic bar scene. On the way, be sure to explore the largely undeveloped coastline, perhaps stopping at Doc Let Beach, Whale Island and the moving war memorial at Son My.


• Cultured charmer and culinary mecca Hoi An is the next essential stop. This town certainly warrants three days, such is its allure. Then it’s a quick look at booming Danang and on to the old imperial capital of Hue and its citadel, tombs and pagodas. From here pause to tour the DMZ (Demilitarised Zone) and its famous war sites before hitting the truly remarkable Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, the world’s greatest caving region, with towering limestone mountains and cobalt jungle rivers.


• Next it’s a long journey by road or train towards Halong Bay, with more than 2000 limestone outcrops dotting the ocean. Stop for a couple of days on rugged Cat Ba Island, an important adventure-sports centre, before heading to the capital. Budget for at least a couple of days in Hanoi to sample its evocative Old Quarter and to view the city’s elegant architecture and memorable museums. Make the most of your last day, perhaps munching street food and sampling bia hoi (fresh draught beer).

Northern Mountains

• Northern Vietnam is a world unto itself: a land of brooding mountains, overwhelming beauty and a mosaic of ethnic minorities. It’s ideal terrain to cover on two wheels, with light traffic and breathtaking views, though most of the region can be tackled by public transport with a patient attitude.


• Visit Hanoi to explore its Old Quarter and visit the museums. Then head west to Mai Chau, home to the White Thai people, for your first two nights; it’s a perfect introduction to ethnic minority life. Northwest where the road begins to climb into the Tonkinese Alps, a logical overnight stop is Son La.


• Continue on for two nights at Dien Bien Phu, a name that resonates with history as it was here that the French colonial story ended with defeat. Tour the military sights and then continue north through stunning scenery up the Tram Ton Pass.


• Sapa is the premier destination in the northwest, thanks to the infinite views (on a clear day!), and an amazing array of minority peoples. Explore the area on two feet of two wheels for around four days before heading to Bac Ha for three nights to experience the best of the region’s markets. Most colourful are the Flower H’mong people.


• From Bac Ha move east to Ha Giang province, taking it slowly through stunning scenery and towns including Yen Minh, Dong Van and Meo Vac. Explore remote destinations like the Lung Cu flag tower amd the Vuong Palace from Dong Van, before negotiating the vertiginous Mai Pi Leng Pass to Meo Vac. From Meo Vac, there’s no public transport further south, so you’ll need to hire a xe om (motorbike taxi) or car to get to the riverside junction town of Bao Lac.


• Local buses run from Bao Lac to Cao Bang and on to Ba Be National Park. Spend about three nights around Ba Be, staying at local Tay ethnic minority homestays, and exploring the park by trekking or kayaking. From Ba Be travel back to Cao Bang for the trip south to Hanoi.

Top events

Tet, January – February

Hue Festival, June (Biennial)

Wandering Souls Day, August

Danang Fireworks Festival, April

Buddha’s Birth, Enlightenment and Death, May

January

Winter temperatures can be bitterly cold in the far north, with snow possible. The further south you go, the milder the weather. Tet occurs at the end of the month (or in February).

Dalat Flower Festival

Held early in the month, this is always a wonderful occasion, with huge elaborate displays and the whole town involved. It’s become an international event, with music and fashion shows and a wine festival.

February

North of Danang, chilly ‘Chinese winds’ usually mean grey, overcast conditions. Conversely, sunny hot days are the norm in the southern provinces.

Tet (Tet Nguyen Dan)

The Big One! Falling in late January or early February, Vietnamese Lunar New Year is like Christmas, New Year and birthdays all rolled into one. Travel is difficult at this time, as transport is booked up and many businesses close.

March

Grey skies and cool temperatures can affect anywhere north of Hoi An, but towards the end of the month the thermometer starts to rise. Down south, the dry season is ending.

Buon Ma Thuot Coffee Festival

Caffeine cravers should make for the highlands during March, as Buon Ma Thuot plays host to an annual coffee festival. Growers, grinders, blenders and addicts rub shoulders in the city’s main park, and local entertainment is provided.

Saigon Cyclo Challenge

On your marks…get pedaling. Ho Chi Minh City’s fastest rickshaw drivers battle it out in their three-wheeled chariots to raise funds for charity. Takes place in mid-March every year.

April

Generally an excellent time to coveeerrr theee nnnation, as the winter monsoon rains should have subsided and there are some excellent festivals. Flights are usually moderately priced (unless Easter falls in this month).

Holiday of the Dead (Thanh Minh)

It’s time to honour the ancestors with a visit to graves of decreased relatives to tidy up and sweep tombstones. Offerings of flowers, food and paper are presented. It’s held on the first three days of the third moon.

Hue Festival (Biennial)

Vietnam’s biggest cultural event (www.huefestival.com) is held every two years, with events in 2014 and 2016. Most of the art, theatre, music, circus and dance performances are held inside Hue’s Citadel.

Danang Fireworks Festival

Danang’s riverside explodes with sound, light and colour during this spectacular event, which features competing pyrotechnic teams from the USA, China, Europe and Vietnam. Held in the last week of the month.

May

A fine time to tour the centre and the north, with a good chance of clear skies and warm days. Sea temperatures are warming up nicely and it’s a pretty quiet month for tourism.

Buddha’s Birth, Enlightenment and Death (Phong Sinh)

A big celebration at Buddhist temples with lively street processions and lanterns used to decorate pagodas. Complexes including Chua Bai Dinh near Ninh Binh and HCMC’s Jade Emperor Pagoda host lavish celebrations. Fifteenth day of the fourth lunar month.

Nha Trang Sea Festival

Falls at the end of May (and the beginning of June) and includes a street festival, photograpgy exhibitions, embroidery displays and kite-flying competitions.

June

A great time to tour Viet nam as it’s just before the peak domestic season. Humidity can be punishing at this time of year, so plan to spend some time by the coast.

Summer Solstice Day (Tet Doan Ngo)

Keep epidemics at bay with offerings to the spirits, ghosts and the God of Death on the fifth day of the fifth moon. Sticky rice wine (ruou nep) is consumed in industrial quantities.

August

The peak month for tourism with domestic and international tourists. Book flights and accommodation well ahead. Weather-wise it’s hot, hot, hot.

Wandering Souls Day (Trung Nguyen)

Second in the pecking order to Tet is this ancient Vietnamese tradition. Huge spreads of food are left out for lost spirits who, it’s believed, wnader the earth on this day. Held on the 15^th day of the seventh moon.

Children’s (or Mid-Autumn) Festival, Hoi An

This is a big event in Hoi An, when citizens celebrate the full moon, eat moon cakes and beat drums. The lion, unicorn and dragon dance processions are enacted, and children are fully involved in the celebrations.

October

A good time to visit the far north, with a strong chance of clear skies and mild temperatures. Winter winds and rain begin to affect the centre, but down south it’s often dry.

Mid-Autumn Festival (Trung Thu)

A fine time for foodies with moon cakes of sticky rice filled with lotus seeds, watermelon seeds, peanuts, River.

December

The month begins quietly, but from mid-December the popular tourist resorts get increasingly busy and you should book well ahead to secure a room over the Christmas break. It’s still steamy in the south but can get chilly up north.

Christmas Day (Giang Sinh)

This is not a national holiday, but it is celebrated throughout Vietnam, particularly by the sizeable Catholic population. It’s a special time to be in places like Phat Diem and HCMC, where thousands attend midnight Mass.

Fabulous Food

Hoi An Try herb-rich dishes and unique creations like banh bao and banh xeo, then take a cooking course.

Hanoi An endlessly tasty street-food sceneincluding bun cha, sticky rice creations and crab noodle soup.

Ho Chi Minh City Foodie paradise: roadside stalls, swish gourmet restaurants, to-die-for Vietnamese eateries and international cuisine.

Minority Flavours Taste H’mong, Tay and Muong ethnic minority food at specialist restaurants like Quan Kien and The Hill Station.

Hue This city is famous for its complex imperial cuisine tradition, but is also great for a casual bite.

Markets

Bac Ha One of the most colourful markets in Southeast Asia where you can see the unique costumes of the Flower H’mong.

Mekong Delta’s Floating Markets Early birds get to catch the delta’s panoply of river markets, selling everything from durian to dog meat.

Sinho Experience an authentic minority market in this isolated highland town, which now has a good new hotel.

Ben Thanh Market HCMC’s most famous and most central market is a hive of activity.

Remote & Hidden

Ha Giang Crammed with jaw-dropping scenery, this rugged area abuts Vietnam’s northern border with China.

HoChiMinh City Tours Sample food from the backstreets, speed on Vespas along alleys and dig out the city’s hidden pockets.

Ganh Da Dia An isolated coastline boasting empty beaches, lonely fishing villages and impressive sand dunes.

Phu Dien Buried in sand dunes for centuries, this small Cham temple is surrounded by magnificent coastal scenery.

Bai Dam Trau A half-moon crescent of pale sand, bookended by forest-topped rocky promontories on the Con Dao islands.

Tombs & Temples

Hue Vietnamese emperors built dazzling monuments around this city. Don’t miss the tombs of Tu Duc and Minh Mang.

My Son Unquestionably the most impressive Cham site; the forested hilltop location is very special too.

Hanoi Come face-to-face with history in Ho Chi Minh’s austere mausoleum.

Cao Dai Great Temple A brightly coloured, magnificent hybrid of Chinese temple, Islamic mosque and Christian cathedral.

Jade Emperor Pagoda Taoism and Buddhism achieve a notable fusion at HCMC’s most famous temple.

Beautiful Beaches

Mui Ne Squeaky sands along the shore, towering sand dunes nearby and expanses of empty beaches up the coast.

Quan Lan Island Join friendly Vietnamese families for beer and seafood on sleepy Minh Chau beach.

Nha Trang Flop on the inviting sands, then explore the bay’s islands by boat.

Con Dao Islands We suggest a self-imposed exile of at least three nights.

Phu Quoc Island Long Beach is the natural choice, but Sao Beach has beautiful sand, sapphire waters and fewer people.

Lan Ha Bay Kayak to hidden sandy coves amid the karst labyrinths of this spectacular bay.

Road Trips

Mai Pi Leng Pass Negotiate this mountainous route from Dong Van to Meo Vac cut into a narrow pass high above the Nho Que River.

Phu Quoc Island Straddle a motorbike to tame the red-dirt distances of this island.

Mekong Delta Whiz about the delta, hopping aboard the occasional ferry when you run out of road.

Ho Chi Minh Highway Forgo Hwy 1 for a while: this inland route is light on traffic and big on scenery.

Spectacular Treks

Hang SonDoong For the ultimate finale, hike through pristine mountain and valley trails to the world’s largest cave.

Sapa Join chatty H’mong guides to explore the ethnic minority villages around Sapa, framed by cascades of verdant rice terraces.

Mai Chau Take-it-easy trekking in spectacular scenery around sleepy Mai Chau.

The World’s Biggest Cave

• Finally, after years of speculation, the Vietnamese government has granted (strictly regulated) access to Hang Son Doong, the world’s biggest cave. Sign up for the trip of lifetime.

Imperial Citadel, Hanoi

• The nexus of Vietnamese military power  for more than 1000 years, Hanoi’s World Heritage-listed Imperial Citadel has recently been opened for public viewing. It’s a right royal history lesson.

Phong Nha Fun

• Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park continues to open up. Superb new hiking and caving excursions are now possible deep inside Paradise Cave to remote Hang En, and the Tu Lan river-cave system.

Zone 9, Hanoi

• Filling a former pharmaceutical factory with bars, galleries and art spaces, Hanoi’s Zone 9 precinct is the city’s hippest and most vibrant new destination.

Hill Station Signature Restaurant

• In chic surrounding in Sapa, learn how to cook H’mong cuisine at the Hill Station Signature Restaurant. Wash it all down with a tasting set of delicious ruou (traditional rice wine).

Independent Tours in Ho Chi Minh City

• A bevy of entertaining and inspiring tours is now up for grabs, taking visitors on a wild carousel ride of street food, night sights, bars and more.

A Tribal Base

• High in the hills above Hoi An, this spectacular, unexpectedly comfortable new guesthouse is located in Bho Hoong, a traditional Co Tu minority village.

An Bang Beach

• This beach goes from strength to strength with hip new accommodation choices, like the delightful An Bang Seaside Village, and chic new restaurants, like the effortlessly relaxed, ocean-facing le Banyan Bar.

Cham Homestays

• Such is its fame these days that the main Cham island settlement of Bai Lang can get crowded, but pretty Bai Huong remains totally tranquil, and has a great new homestay program.

Cat Ba Island Hotels

• New hotels are opening up on private islands in the Cat Ba area, including Cat Ong Beach Cottages, which has its own private beach and chic bungalows.

Phu Thuan Beach

• A short cruise from the cultural capital of Hue, lovely Phu Thuan Beach offers a perfect vision of the tropics, with ocean-washed clean sands, a shack-bar and beautifully crafted, great-value accommodation.

Checklist

• Apply for your visa in advance


• Make sure your passport is valid for at least six months past your arrival date


• Check your immunisation history


• Arrange appropriate travel insurance


• Inform your debit-/credit-card company


• Pre-book internal flights and trains

What to pack

• Good footwear – Vietnam’s streets are bumpy and lumpy


• Mosquito repellent with DEET


• Rain jacket


• Electrical adapter


• Torch (flashlight)


• Flip-flops or sandals


• Binoculars

Top Tips for Your Trip

• Prepare yourself for the crazy driving: traffic can come at you every which way, and in the cities swarms of motorbikes reach biblical proportions. Try to keep calm and consider arranging a massage after a long journey.


• Be aware that Vietnam has more than its fair share of scams; most concern overcharging. Though very rare, there are some more serious dangers (like unexploded ordnance) to also be aware of. Relevant warnings are given in destinations throughout this guide.


• In towns like Hue and Sapa, and beaches popular with tourists, expect plenty of hustle from street vendors, cyclo drivers and the like. Off the beaten track there’s little or no hassle.


• Load your bargaining head before you arrive.

What to Wear

• There are no serious cultural concerns about wearing inappropriate clothing in Vietnam. In temples, pagodas and government offices (or if attending a formal dinner), legs should be covered and sinflets avoided.


• Yes, Vietnam is in the tropics, but visit anywhere north of Hoi An between October and March and it can be cool, so pack some layers (a fleece of two). The rest of the year, and in the south, flip-flops or sandals, a T-shirt and shorts are likely to be your daily uniform.

Sleeping

Tourism is booming in Vietnam so it’s usually best to book your accommodation a day or two in advance, or several weeks ahead in the high season (the Tet Lunar New Year holiday, July to August, and around Christmas)

• Hotels Range from simple functional minihotels to uber-luxurious spa hotels.


• Hostels Popular in the main tourism centres, but not that widespread elsewhere.


• Guesthouses Usually family run and less formal than hotels.

Money

• ATMs can be found throughout the country, even in small towns, though charges for withdrawals are quite steep. In general, cash is king in Vietnam, but credit and debit cards are accepted in many hotels.

Bargaining

• Bargaining is essential in Vietnam, but not for everything. Sharpen your haggling skills when shopping in marketplaces and in some small shops (that sell souvenirs and the like), and when arranging local transport like cyclos (bicycle rickshaws) and xe om (motorbike taxis).


• Many hotels will also offer a discount if you ask for one. In restaurants prices are fixed.


• Some bus drivers try to overcharge foreigners, so it’s worth bargaining if you’re certain the fare is overpriced.

Tipping

• Hotels Not expected. Leave a small gratuity for cleaning staff if you like.


• Restaurants Not expected; 5% to 10% in smart restaurants or if you’re very satisfied. Locals don’t tip.


• Guides A few dollars on day trips is sufficient, more for longer trips if the service is good.


• Taxis Not necessary, but a little small change is appreciated, especially at night.


• Bars Never expected.

Language

• English is not widely spoken in Vietnam. In the tourist areas most staff at hotels and restaurants will speak a little, but communication issues are common. A few key phrases of Vietnamese go a long way.

Etiquette

• Meals When dining with Vietnamese people, it’s customary for the most senior diner to pay for everyone.


• Homes Remove your shoes when entering a private house.


• Heads Don’t pat or touch an adult (or child) on the head.


• Feet Avoid pointing your feet at people or sacred objects (eg Buddhas).

Eating

• Local restaurants Vietnamese restaurants tend to have purely functional decor and even look scruffy, but if they’re busy the food will usually be fresh and delicious.


• International restaurants In tourist areas many restaurants serve up Western and Asian food. Often the local food is ‘toned down’ and not that authentic in these places.

Street food

• Pavement kitchens offer cheap and often incredibly tasty local grub.

Why Go?

Showcasing sweeping boulevards, tree-fringed lakes and ancient pagodas, Hanoi is Asia’s most atmospheric capital. It’s an energetic city on the move, and Hanoi’s ambitious citizens are determined to make up for lost time.

As motorbikes and pedestrians ebb and flow through the Old Quarter’s centuries-old commercial chaos, hawkers in conical hats still ply their wares while other locals breakfast on noodles or sip drip-coffee. At dawn on the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, synchronised t’ai chi sessions take place beside goateed grandfathers comtemplating their next chess moves. In Lenin Park, choreographed military drills have been replaced by chaotic skateboarders, while Hanoi’s bright young things celebrate in cosmopolitan restaurants and bars.

Real estate development and traffic chaos increasingly threaten to subsume Hanoi’s compelling blend of Parisian grace and Asian pace, but a beguiling coexistence of the medieval and the modern still enthrals.

When to Go

Jan-Apr Expect cooler days and the energy and colour of the annual Tet New Year Festival.

May Experience the region’s alternative arts and music scenes at CAMA Asean music festival.

Oct-Dec Clear, sunny days and low humidity make this the best time to visit Hanoi.

History

The site where Hanoi stands today has been inhabited since the neolithic period. Emperor Ly Thai To moved his capital here in AD 1010, naming it Thang Long (City of the Soaring Dragon). Spectacular celebrations were held in honour of the city’s 1000^th birthday in 2010.

The decision by Emperor Gia Long, founder of the Nguyen dynasty in 1802, to rule from Hue relegated Hanoi to the status of a regional capital for a century. The city was named Hanoi (The City in a Bend of the River) by Emperor Tu Duc in 1831. From 1902 to 1953, Hanoi served as the capital of French Indochina.

Hanoi was proclaimed the capital of Vietnam after the August Revolution of 1945, but it was not until the Geneva Accords of 1954 that the Viet Minh, driven from the city by the French in 1946, were able to return.

During the American War, US bombing destroyed parts of Hanoi and killed hundreds of civilians. One of the prime targets was the 1682m-long Long Bien Bridge. US aircraft repeatedly bombed this strategic point, yet after each attack the Vietnamese managed to improvise replacement spans and return road and rail services. It is said that the US military ended the attacks when US POWs were put to work repairing the structure. Today the bridge is renowned as a symbol of the tenacity and strength of the people of Hanoi.

As recently as the early 1990s, motorised transport were rare; most people got around on bycycles and the only modern structures were designed by Soviet architects. Today Hanoi’s conservationists fight to save historic structures, but the city struggles to cope with a booming population, soaring pollution levels and an inefficient public transport system.

Sights

Note that some museums are closed on Mondays and take a two-hour lunch break on other days of the week. Check the opening hours carefully before setting off.

Old Quarter

Steeped in history, pulsating with life, bubbling with commerce, buzzing with motorbikes and rich in exotic scents, the Old Quarter is Hanoi’s history heart. The streets are narrow and congested, and crossing the road is an art form, but remember to look up as well as down, as there is some elegant old architecture amidst the chaos. Hawkers pound the streets with sizzling and smoking baskets hiding cheap meals, and pho stalls and bia hoi dens resonate with the sound of gossip and laughter. Modern yet medieval, there is no better way to spend time in Hanoi than walking the streets, soaking up the sights, sounds and smells.

HANOI IN…

One Day

Rise early for a morning walk around misty Hoan Kiem Lake before a classic Hanoi breakfast of pho bo (beef noodle soup) at Pho Thin. Pay your respects at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, before checking out the museum and stilt house. Wander back down P Dien Bien Phu to the Vietnam Military History Museum. Have a coffee at funky Cong Caphe before visiting the cultural treasures of the Fine Arts Museum. Grab a cab to lunch at La Badiane before continuing to the peaceful Temple of Literature. Catch another cab to the chaotic Old Quarter, browsing the ancient neighbourhood’s buildings, shops and galleries. Make time to stop for a well-earned and refreshing glass of bia hoi (draught beer). Catch a performance of the water puppets before heading south of the lake to the atmospheric Nha Hang Ngon for dinner.

Two Days

Head into the suburbs to the excellent Vietnam Museum of Ethnology to discover the ethnic mosaic that makes up modern Vietnam. Back in the city have lunch at Chim Sao before exploring the Museum of the Vietnamese Revolution and the adjacent National Museum of Vietnamese History. The architecture at the latter is stunning, and the contents a fine introduction to 2000 years of highs and lows. After dinner at Highway 4, head for drinks at Manzi Art Space or Bar Betta.

Vietnam is one of the Southeast Asia’s prime destinations for outdoor action. Water sports include superb kayaking and kitesurfing and good diving, snorkelling, sailing and surfing. Inland there’s trekking, cycling, motorbiking and golf. You’ll find some outstanding adventure-sports operators to get you to that trail or out in the ocean.

Best Outdoors

Best Trekking

• Sapa Superlative views but can be crowded.


• Dong Van New routes through spectacular mountain scenery.


• Moc Chau An emerging hiking-and-homestay destination in the northwest.


• Mai Chau Sublime landscapes and tribal villages.

Best Surfing & Kitesurfing

• Mui Ne Southeast Asia’s kitesurfing capital.


• China Beach When it rolls, it rolls.


• Bai Dai South of Nha Trang, this beach break is great for beginners.

Best Diving & Snorkelling

• Con Dao Islands Remote, but the best.


• Phu Quoc Visibility can be a challenge, but some nice coral gardens.


• Nha Trang Professional scuba schools and many dive sites.

Best Cycling

• Dalat Base camp for the dramatic two-day descent to Mui Ne.


• Hoi An Flat terrain to explore craft villages and cut across rice paddies.


• Mekong Delta Back roads beside waterways under the shade of coconut palms.

Planning

Whether you’re commited  kitesurfer or a genteel golfer, some careful planning is essential – Vietnam’s climate is extremely variable and monsoon-dependent.

Best Times to Go

Surfers should be aware that the wave action peaks in the winter (November to April). Kitesurfing also excels at this time of year. Divers take note that water visibility is best in the calm months of June, July and August.

Times to Avoid

It would be foolish to attempt an ascent of Fansipan in the height of the rainy season, from May to September. Snorkelling and diving is virtually impossible between November and April when the winter winds blow and visibility drops.

Trekking

Vietnam offers excellent trekking and less-strenuous walks. The scenery is often remarkable – think plunging highland valleys, tiers of rice paddies and soaring limestone mountains. Anything is possible, from half-day hikes to assaults on Fansipan (3143m), Vietnam’s highest mountain. Even if you’re somewhere like An Bang Beach near Hoi An, you can stroll along the sands for an hour or two and experience a nearpristine coastal environment.

Generally northern Vietnam is your best bet: its dramatic mountain paths and fascinating minority culture are a huge draw. Elsewhere, national parks and nature reserves have established trails (and usually guides available to keep you on them).

Northern Vietnam

The region north of Hanoi is truly spectacular. Sapa is Vietnam’s trekking hub, full of hiking operators and hire stores (renting out sleeping bags, boots and waterproof gear). Maps deatailing trails are available, as are guides. The scenery is remarkable, with majestic mountains, impossibly green rice paddies and some fascinating tribal villages. But prepare yourself – the main trails are incredibly popular and some villagers see hiking groups on an hourly basis. To trek remote paths you’ll have to find an expert local guide.

At a lower elevation is Bac Ha. It’s less rainy and the trails are not heavily trampled. It’s very picturesque, but it lacks Sapa’s jaw-dropping mountain scenery. However, you will find great hikes to waterfalls and to Flower H’mong and Nung villages.

High-altitude Ha Giang province, in the extreme north of Vietnam, is the nation’s Tibet. Hikers can hook up with guides in Ha Giang city, or head out to Dong Van where there are new trekking opportunities.

The Moc Chau plateau is famous for its limestone karsts, plum orchards, tea plantations and dairy products. Thanks to new accommodation options, hiking routes are now opening up here. The nearby Mai Chau region is far more established and popular with tourists, offering great walking in an idyllic valley setting.

Other key destinations include Ba Be, with its network of beautiful trails amid spectacular karst scenery, and Cat Ba, which has a popular 18km hike as well as shorter alternatives such as Butterfly Valley.

Safety guidelines for hikers

• Don’t stray from established paths – Vietnam is full of unexploded ordnance.


• Guides are usually worth hiring; they’re inexpensive, speak the language and understand indigenous culture.


• Dogs can be aggressive; a stout stick can come in handy.


• Boots with ankle support are a great investment.

Central Vietnam

The most spectacular hiking in this region is on offer at Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, and numerous new trails between the limestone hills are being developed. Most combine trekking with some caving, including, most famously, the hike to the world’s largest cave, Hang Son Doong.

You’ll find excellent trails inside Cuc Phuong National Park through superb forest and past ancient trees and caves to a minority village.

Close to Danang, Bach Ma National Park has some good trails while the Ba Na Hill Station has short trails and awesome views. Adventure tour operators in Hoi An also offers some intriguing treks in the tribal areas west of town.

Southern Vietnam

With a bit of luck you might glimpse one of the dozens of mammals present in Yok Don National Park near Buon Ma Thuot. You’ll need to hire a guide to see the best of Cat Tien National Park, where crocodiles can be seen and night hikes are possible. The Wild Gibbon Trek here is proving a big hit. Over in Dalat, several adventure tour operators offer hiking trips: one rewarding area is the Bidoup Nui Ba National Park.

Further south there’s little for hikers to get excited about – the climate is perennially hot and humid and landscape largely flat. Con Son is one curious exception, an island with cooling sea breezes and hikes through rainforest and mangroves.

Diving & Snorkelling

Vietnam is not a world-class dive mecca but it does have some fascinating dive sites. If you’ve experienced reefs in Indonesia or Australia, prepare yourself for less sea life and reduced visibility. The most popular scuba-diving and snorkelling is around Nha Trang where there are several reputable dive operators with equipment and training up to international standards. Hoi An’s two dive schools head to the Cham Islands where macro life can be intriguing. Phu Quoc Island is another popular spot. One-off discover diving experiences cost around US$60 to US$80, with two fun dives running around US$70 to US$80. Expect to pay between US$30 and US$42 for a snorkelling day trip.

The Con Dao Islands offer unquestionably the best diving and snorkelling in Vietnam, with bountiful marine life, fine reefs and even a wreck dive. However, expect to pay more than you would elsewhere in Vietnam (around US$160 for two fun dives).

It is also possible to hire snorkelling gear and scuba equipment at several beach resorts along the coast, including Cua Dai Beach, Ca Na and China Beach.

Note that Vietnam is home to several dodgy dive shops, some of which have fake PADI credentials. Nha Trang in particular has an excess of such places. Stick to reputable, recommended dive schools with good safety procedures, qualified instructors and well-maintained equipment. PADI Open Water courses cost around US$350 to US$500.

Surfing

There’s surf most times of year in Vietnam, though it isn’t an acclaimed destination – the wave scene in Apocalypse Now was shot in the Philippines. Dedicated surf shops are rare, though the odd guesthouse and adventure-sport tour operator have boards for hire.

The original GI Joe break, China Beach is a 30km stretch of sand, which can produce clean peaks of over 2m, though watch out for pollution after heavy rains.

In season, head to Bai Dai beach, 27km south of Nha Trang, where’s there’s a good left-hand break up to 2m during stormy conditions. There’s also powerful body surfing on Nha Trang’s main beach.

Beginners can head to Mui Ne, with multiple breaks around the bay, including short right- and left-handers. Further south, Vung Tau is inconsistent, but offers some of Vietnam’s best waves when conditions are right.

Surf’s up between November and April when the winter monsoon blows from the north. Several typhoons form in the South China Sea each year, and these produce the biggest wind swells, through the action is usually short lived.

Anyone searching for fresh waves in remote locations should be extremely wary of unexploded ordnance, which litters the countryside, particularly near the Demili-tarised Zone (DMZ). Garbage, stormwater run-off and industrial pollution are other hazards, particularly near cities. Rip tides can be powerful, so use a leash on your board.

Kitesurfing & Windsurfing

Windsurfing and kitesurfing are taking off. Mui Ne Beach is fast becoming a wind-chaser’s hot spot in Asia with competitions and a real buzz about the place. Nha Trang and Vung Tau are other possibilities.

If you’ve never kitesurfed, hace a taster lesson (US$80 to US$100) before enrolling in lengthy training – a three-day course costs from US$275 to US$385. It’s tough to get your head around all the basics (and also tough on your body!).

The best conditions in Mui Ne are in the dry season from November to April. Mornings are ideal for beginners, while in the afternoon wind speeds regularly reach 35 knots. Nha Trang and Vung Tau are also best at this time of year.

Kayaking

Kayaking has exploded in popularity around Halong Bay in the past few years. Many standard Halong Bay tours now include an hour or so of kayaking through the karsts, or you can choose a kayaking specialist and paddle around majestic limestone pinnacles, before overnighting on a remote bay.

Other kayaking destinations include Cat Ba Island, the Con Dao Islands, Phong Nha, Dalat and rivers in the Hoi An region. You can also rent sea kayaks on beaches including Nha Trang.

Operators include Blue Swimmer, Asia Outdoors, Cat Ba Ventures and Marco Polo Travel.

White-Water Rafting

Rafting is in its infancy in Vietnam. Several outfits in Dalat offer trips around the town, including Phat Tire Ventures , which runs a day trip down the Langbian River with Class II, III or IV rapids, depending on the season; prices start at US$62. Companies based in Nha Trang aslo offer trips.

Cycling

Cycling is a popular mode of transport in Vietnam, and it’s an excellent way to experience the country. Basic bicycles can be rented for US$1 to US$3 per day, and good quality mountain bikes for US$7 to US$12.

The flat lands of the Mekong Delta region are ideal for long-distance rides down back roads. The entire coastal route along Hwy 1 has allure, but the insane traffic makes it tough going and dangerous. Consider the inland Ho Chi Minh Highway (Hwy 14, 15 and 8), which offers stunning scenery and little traffic. There’s flat terrain around Hoi An, which is an excellent base for exploring craft villages and country lanes. Hue is also a great place for cycling, with temples, pagodas and the Perfume River.

In the southwest highlands, Dalat has lots of dirt trails and is the base camp for the dramatic two-day descent to Mui Ne.

Motorbiking

Motorbiking through Vietnam is an unforgettable way to experience the nation. It’s the mode of transport for most Vietnamese, so you’ll find repair shops everywhere. Two wheels put you closer to the countryside – its smells, people and scenery – compared with getting around by car or bus. For those seeking true adventure there is no better way to go.

If you’re not confident riding a motorbike, it’s comparatively cheap to hire someone to drive one for you. Easy Riders is one such scheme.

Unless you relish getting high on exhaust fumes and barged by trucks, avoid too much time on Hwy 1. The inland Ho Chi Minh Highway running the spine of the country from north to south is one alternative, though of course you miss out on the ocean. The stretch from Duc Tho to Phong Nha offers wonderful karst scenery, forests, little traffic and an excellent paved road. For outstanding ocean views, try coastal Hai Van Pass, which features hairpin after hairpin.

Further north, there’s glorious mountain scenery, river valleys and tribal villages around Sapa and Dien Bien Phu. The route through Ha Giang province through Ha Giang, Dong Van and Bao Lac is the ultimate, with superlative vistas and stupendous mountain roads.

The spectacular new road between Nha Trang and Dalat cuts through forests and takes in a 1700m pass.

Caving

There are amazing cave trips at Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, many of which involve some hiking, swimming (there are a lot of river caves) and a short climb or two.

Specialist Oxalis is the only operator licensed to take you to the wonders of Hang Son Doong, the world’s largest cave, but if your budget won’t stretch to this there are other options. You can now trek 7km inside Paradise Cave, do a remarkable two-day hike to Hang En Cave and Ban Doong village and there’s the lovely swimthrough Tu Lan cave system. It may be touristy, but the Phong Nha river cave trip by boat is still a great excursion.

Rock Climbing

It’s early days, but with the sheer range of limestone karsts found up and down the country, it is only a matter of time before Vietnam becomes a climbing mecca. The pioneers, and acknowledged specialists, are Asia Outdoors, a highly professional outfit based in Cat Ba Town that has instruction for beginners and dedicated trips for rock addicts. In Dalat there are a couple of good adventure tour operators offering climbing and canyoning too. And in Hoi An, Phat Tire Ventures offers climbing and rappelling (from US$48) on a marble cliff.

Golfing

Most Vietnamese golf clubs will allow you to pay a guest fee. The best golf courses in Vietnam include those around Dalat and Phan Thiet, but there are also plenty of courses in and around Hanoi and HCMC.

Golfing package deals are offered by Luxury Travel (www.luxurytravelvietnam.com) and UK-based Vietnam Golf (www.vietnamgolf.co.uk)

Alt Highway 1

Hwy 1’s heavy traffic and trucks don’t make for great motorbiking or bycycling. It’s possible, with some careful planning, to loop off Hwy 1 at regular intervals and use coastal back roads. East of Hue between Thuan An and Vin Hien; between Chi Thanh and the Hon Gom peninsula; south of Nha Trang to the Cam Ranh airport; and between Phan Thiet and Vung Tau are perfect examples.

Currency

• Dong (d)

Language

• Vietnamese

Visas

• Most nationalities need a visa, which must be arranged in advance. If you’re arriving by air, online visa agents (www.vietnamvisachoice.com) are more efficient than embassies.

Money

• ATMs widely available, except well off the beaten track. Credit cards accepted in most midrange and luxury hotels, but rarely in restaurants or stores.

Mobile Phones

• To avoid roaming charges, local SIM cards can be used in most European, Asian and Australian (and many North American) phones.

Time

• Vietnam is seven hours ahead of GMT/UTC.

When to go

High Season (Jul-Aug)

• Prices increase by up to 50% by the coast; book hotels well in advance.


• All Vietnam, except the far north, is hot and humid, with the summer monsoon bringing downpours.

Shoulder (Dec-Mar)

• During the Tet festival, the whole country is on the move and prices rise.


• North of Nha Trang can get cool weather. Except cold conditions in the far north.


• In the south, clear skies and sunshine are the norm.

Low Season (Apr-Jun, Sep-Nov)

• Perhaps the best time to tour the whole nation.


• Typhoons can lash the central and northern coastline until November.

Websites

• Vietnam Coracle (http://vietnamcoracle.com) Excellent independent travel advice from a long-term resident.


• The Word (www.wordhcmc.com) This comprehensive magazine has excellent features.


• Thanh Nien News (www.thanhniennews.com) Government-approved news, but includes diverse and interesting content.


• Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/vietnam) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.


• The Economist (www.economist.com/topics/vietnam) Analytical and provocative articles.


• Vietnam Online (www.vietnamonline.com) Good all-rounder.

Important Numbers

• To call Vietnam from outside, drop the initial O from the area code. Mobile numbers begin with 09 or 01.


• Country Code84


• International Access Code 00


• Directory Assistance 116


• Police 113


• General In formation Service 1080

Exchange Rates

• Australia A$1 20,301d


• Canada C$1 20,305d


• Euro 29,070d


• Japan 21,678d


• New Zealand NZ$1 17,676d


• UK 34,093d


• US US$1 21,085d


• For current exchange rates see www.xe.com

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than US$40

• Glass of bia hoi: from US$0.50


• One hour on a local bus: US$1-1.50


• Cheap hotel: US$10-15 a night, dorms less


• Local meal of noodles: US$1.50-2.50

Midrange: US$40-100

• Comfortable double room: US$20-50


• Meal in a smart restaurant: from US$5


• One-hour massage: US$6-20


• Ten-minute taxi ride: US$4

Top End: More than US$100

• Luxury hotel room: from US$0


• Gourmet restaurant: from US$15


• Most internal flights: US$30-75

Opening Hours

Opening hours vary very little throughout the year.

• Restaurants: 11.30am-9pm


• Banks: 8am-3pm weekdays, 8am-11.20am Saturday


• Offices and museums: 7am or 8am to 5pm or 6pm. Museums generally close on Monday.


• Temples and pagodas: 5am-9pm


• Shops: 8am-6pm

Arriving in Vietnam

Tan Son Nhat International Airport

• Taxis to central districts cost 175,000d and around 30 minutes. There’s also an air-conditioned bus (Route 152) to the centre (5000d, every 15 minutes, 6am-6pm, around 40 minutes).

Noi Bai Airport

• Taxis to the centre cost 400,000d and take around one hour. The Vietnam Airlines minibus costs 60,000d and runs every 30 minutes. Route 17 public bus from airport to Long Bien bus station (walking distance to the Old Quarter) is 5000d.

Getting Around

• Buses are the main mode of transport for locals in Vietnam, but travellers tend to prefer planes, trains and automobiles.

Train:

• Reasonably priced and comfortable enough if you score an air-conditioned carriage (and a sleeper on overnight routes). But note there are no real express trains.

Plane: 

• Very cheap if you book ahead (often less than the equivalent bus fare) and the network is pretty comprehensive. However, cancellations are quite common.

Car:

• Very useful for travelling at your own pace or for visiting regions with minimal public transport. Cars always come with a driver as part of the rental deal.

Bus:

• On the main highways services are quite good, although it’s not a particularly relaxing way to travel. In remote areas things deteriorate rapidly. Open-tour

1. Hoi An

Vietnam’s most cosmopolitan and civi-lised town, this beautiful, ancient port (p195) is bursting with gourmet Vietnam-ese restaurants, hip bars and cafes, quirky boutiques and experts tailors. Immerse yourself in history in the warren-like lanes of the Old Town, shop till you drop, tour the temples and pagodas, and dine like an emperor on a peasant’s budget (and even learn how to cook like the locals). Then hit glorious An Bang Beach, wander along the riverside and bike the back roads. Yes, Hoi An has it all. Japanese Covered Bridge (p198)

2. Food

Perhaps Asia’s greatest culinary secret, Vietnamese food is on the radar but hardly a global phenomenon. Essentially it’s all about the freshness of the ingredients – chefs shop twice daily to source just-picked herbs from the market. The result? Incomparable texture and flavour combinations. For the Vietnamese, a meal should balance sour and sweet, crunchu and silky, fried and steamed, soup and salad. Wherever you are, you’ll find ex-quisite local specialities – the ‘white rose’ of Hoi An, the canh chuaof the Mekong Delta or the good ol’ pho of the north. Cao lau (p206), Hoi An.

3. Mui Ne

Perhaps the adrenalin epicentre of Vietnam, the relaxed, prosperous beach resort of Mui Ne (p248) is a kite-surfing capital with world-class wind and conditions, and excellent schools for pro-fessional training. For thosewho prefer dry land, sandboarding and golf are popular alternatives. The resort itself has more than 20km of palm-fringed beachfront that stretches invitingly along the shores of the South China Sea. From guesthouses to boutique resorts, designer bars to fine-value spas, Mui Ne has a broad appeal.

4. Sapa & the Tonkinese Alps

Dubbed the Tonkinese Alps by the French, the spectacular Hoang Lien Mountains soar skywards along the rugged edges of northwest Vietnam towards the Chinese border. Shape-shifting banks of cloud and mist ebb and flow in the mountainous area around Sapa (p128), parting to reveal a glimpse of Fansipan, Vietnam’s highest peak. From the sinuous and spideryridges, rice terraces cascade down into river valleys, home for several centuries to ethnic minority villages of H’mong, Red Dao and Giay peoples. Rice fields, Sapa.

5. Hue

The nation’s capital for 150 years in the 19^th and early 20^th centuries, Hue (p167) is perhaps the easiest Vietnamese city of love. Its situation on the banks of the Perfume River is sublime, its complex cuisine is justifiably famous and its streets are relatively traffic free. And that’s without the majesty of the Hue Citadel, with its royal residences and elegant temples, formidable walled defences and gateways. On the city’s fringes are some of Vietnam’s most impressive pagodas and royal tombs, many in wonderful natural settings. Hue Citadel (p171)

6. Halong Bay

A stunning combinations of karst limestone peaks and sheltered, shimmering seas makes Halong Bay (p101) one of Vienam’s toptourist draws, but with more than 2000 different islands there’s plenty of superb scenery to go aroung. Denifitely book an overnight cruise and make time for your own special moments on this World Heritage wonder – rising early for an ethereal misty dawn, or piloting a kayak into grottoes and lagoons. If you’re hankering for more karst action, move on to the less touristy but equally spectacular Lan Ha Bay.

7. Ho Chi Minh City

Increasingly international but still unmistakably Vietnamese, the former Saigon’s visceral energy will delight big-city devotees. HCMC (p294) doesn’t inspire neutrality: you’ll either be drawn into its thrilling vortex, hypnotised by the perpetual whir of it orbiting motorbikes, or you’ll find the whole experience overwhelming. Dive in and you’ll be rewarded with a wealth of history, delicious food and a vibrant nightlife that sets the standard for Vietnam. The heat is always in Saigon; loosen your collar and enjoy…

8. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park

Picture jungle-crowned hills, rainforest, turquoise streams and traditional villages. Then throw in the globe’s most impressive cave systems – river-created Phong Nha Cave, the ethereal beauty of Paradise Cave and the cathedral-like chambers of Hans Son Doong, the world’s largest cave – and you can see why Phong Nha – Ke Bang (p156)nis Vietnam’s most rewarding national park to explore. It’s a great place to experience rural Vietnam at its most majestic. Hang Son Doong (p158)

9. Angkor Wat

One of the world’s most magnificent sights, the temples of Angkor (p408)lie just over the border in Cambodia. Choose from Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious building; Bayon, the world’s weirdest; or Ta Prohm, where nature runs amok. Siem Reap is the base for exploring Angkor and it’s a buzzing destination with a superb selection of restaurants and bars. Beyond the temples lie floating villages on the Tonlé Sap Lake, adrenalinfilled activities such as quad biking, and cultured pursuits such as cooking classes and bird-watching.

10. Biking the North

Saddle up for the ride of a lifetime into the mountains of Vietnam’s deep north (p120). From Ha noi, journey through sleppy Mai Chau and the historic battlefields of Dien Bien Phu before crossing the 1900m Tram Ton Pass to the stunning scenery and cascading rice terraces around Sapa. Continue east to the mosaic of ethnic minorities around Bac Ha before pushing on to challenging Ha Giang province, Vietnam’s hugely spectacular destination for intrepid travellers. In all parts of the north, look forward to the road trip of your life. Ha Giang province (p140)

11. Cat Tien National Park

One of the most accessible and impressive protected areas in Vietnam, Cat Tien (p282) lies conveniently midway between Ho Chi Minh City and Dalat. Popular activities include trekking, cycling and wildlife-spotting. The park is home to the Dao Tien Endangered Primate Species Centre, where gibbons and langurs are coaxed back into their natural environment. The Wild Gibbon Trek is a must, one of the wildlife highlights of Vietnam. Dong Nai River, Cat Tien

12. Phu Quoc Island

Lapped by azure waters and edged with the kind of white-sand beaches that make sun seekers sink to their weak knees, Phu Quoc (p372) – way down in the south of Vietnam – is ideal for slipping into low gear, reaching for a seaside cocktail and toasting a blood-orangesun as it dips into the sea. And if you want to notch it up a gear, grab a motorbike and hit the red-dirt roads to your heart’s content: the island’s the size of Singapore. Sao Beach (p373)

13. Hanoi’s Old Quarter

Don’t worry, it happens to everyone when they first get to Hanoi. Get agreeably lost in the city’s centuries-old Old Quarter (p51), a frantic commercial labyrinth where echoes of the past are filtered and framed by a thoroughly 21^st-century energy. Discover Vietnam’s culinary flavours and aromas at street level, perched on a tiny chair eating iconic Hanoi dishes like pho bo, bun cha and banh cuon. Later at night, join the socialising throngs enjoying refreshingly crisp bia hoi at makeshift street-corner bars.

14. Coffee Time

Starbucks may have opened its first branch here in 2013, but in Vietnam, cafes and coffee culture (p459) run deep. Virtually every neighbourhood in every town (and most villages) will have a little café where locals go to de-stress from the office, the family or simply the traffic (most are located on quiet side streets with copious greenery to promote relaxation). Vietnamese coffee can be served hot or iced (a real treat in summer), either treacle thick, or with milk (usually sweetened and condensed) for a double-whammy caffeine-sugar kick. Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk

15. Con Dao Islands

The furious energy that characterises Vietnamese cities can be intoxicating, but when you need an urban detox these idyllic tropical islands (p262) make the perfect escape. Once hell on earth for a generation of political prisoners, Con Dao is now a heavenly destination of remote beaches, pristine dive sites and diverse nature (including nesting sea turtles). It’s a wonderful place to explore by bike in search of that dream beach, and the main settlement of Con Son is one of Vietnam’s most charming towns.

16. Ba Be National Park

Detour from the regular tourist trail to visit Ba Be National Park (p96), an essential destination for active and intrepid travellers, with towering limestone mountains, plunging valleys and evergreen forests. Waterfalls, caves and lakes combine in a landscape that sustains over 550 fifferent plants and hundreds of bird and animal species. Explore Ba Be’s natural spectacle by boat or on trekking and mountain-biking excursions, before relaxing and recharging in the villages and homestays of the local Tay ethnic minority. Ba Be Lake

17. Nha Trang

First things first: Nha Trang (p230) must boast one of the finest beaches in Asia, a breathtaking strip of fine, golden sand lapped by the balmy waters of the South China Sea. But there’s much more to the town than beach appeal, with river and island boat trips, ancient Cham towers to explore, natural mud-bath spas and a great dining scene. Nha Trang is also a party mecca for backpackers, for whom the bar and club scene is legendary. Nha Trang Beach

18. Bia Hoi

One of the great pleasures of travelling in Vietnam, bia hoi (fresh draught beer) is brewed daily, without additives or preservatives, to be drunk within hours. Incredibly cheap and widely available, bia hoi places offer a very local experience. Park (or attempt to park) your rear on one of the tiny plastic stools and get stuck in. Bites to eat are often sold too. Said to have been introduced to Hanoi by Czech brewers, every town now has a bia hoi place, often with a street terrace. Hanoi’s Old Quarter

19. Ethnic Minority Markets

Use the dusty town of Bac Ha (p137) as a convenient base to explore and discover a colourful variety of local ethnic minority markets. Dao, Flower H’mong, Tay and Nung people all visit Tuesday’s Coc Ly market, and on Saturday mornings the Can Cau market is the place to meet Blue H’mong people over a robust shot of ruou, local wine made from corn. Further afield, in remote Ha Giang province, Dong Van and Meo Vac both have vibrant Sunday markets (p142). Flower H’mong women, Bac Ha

20. Dalat

Dalat (p272) is the queen of the southwest highlands and has been popular with international tourists since the days of the French colonialists. Grand Gallic villas are dotted amid pine groves and the whole town is centred on a pretty lake, with numerous nearby waterfalls adding to its natural appeal. Dalat is also fast becoming one of Vietnam’s key adventure-sport centres, with abseiling, canyoning, mountain biking, hiking and rafting all on offer. The benign climate here will be a relief if you’ve been suffering in HCMC. Highlands aroung Dalat